Skip to content

Travel Obscure

On Safari in Eswatini: 6 Game Parks You Probably Haven't Heard Of

Eswatini, formerly known as Swaziland, is not well known as a safari destination. That might be because the game parks here don’t have the pure scale of Kruger or the mass migrations of the Masai Mara. But as a safari destination, Eswatini still has a lot to offer, just on a smaller, more intimate scale.

1. Mkhaya Game Reserve

This is one of the best places in Africa to see black rhinos in the wild. If you visit only one game park in Eswatini, make it this one. There are no self-drive options in Mkhaya, so you will be met at the entrance and taken by safari vehicle into the park. While you can do a day tour, the best way to experience Mkhaya Game Reserve is to stay overnight at the Stone Camp. With partially open rondavels, you can drift off to sleep to the sounds of the bush. And take a morning shower while watching the nyala make their way to the river to drink. The overnight stay includes multiple game drives and a walk with a ranger to spot rhinos on foot. Rhinos are the big reason to visit this park, and while we didn’t see the elusive black rhinos during our stay, we saw more white rhinos than we could count.

On Safari in Eswatini Mkhaya rhino safari, Eswatini

A white rhino and hippos at the watering hole. Viewed on a walking safari of Mkhaya Game Reserve

2. Mlawula Nature Reserve

Where Mkhaya is upmarket and polished, Mlawula is tired and down at heel. A mixture of savannah and woodland, Mlawula is expansive (for Eswatini) and wild. But with poaching not as well-controlled, the game viewing is more of a challenge. The real draw here is that you will likely have the whole place to yourself. And with nothing too dangerous, you can leave your car whenever you want to explore some of the many hiking trails on offer here. The park has a lodge with fantastic views and a camping area, where you may encounter impala or zebra around your tent in the morning. Worth a trip if you have plenty of time and enjoy a bit of solitude in nature.

On Safari in Eswatini Mlawula Nature Reserve, Eswatini

A whole campground to ourselves in Mlawula Nature Reserve

3. Hlane Royal National Park

Hlane is the only place to see lions in Eswatini. It is also the largest of the country’s privately managed game parks (the others being Mkhaya and Mlilwane). With some lovely little rondavels surrounding the central watering hole, it’s also a fantastic place to stay. Here you don’t even need to leave your accommodation, just sit on the porch and watch the elephants and rhinos come to you. There is a fence to keep you safe, but it’s very discreet, the lions being in a separate section of the park. To see the king of the jungle, you’ll need to take a game tour, well worthwhile if this will be your only chance to see lions in Africa. If not, grab a beer, get the braai (BBQ) started, kick back, and watch the action around the waterhole without moving from your verandah.

On Safari in Eswatini Hlane Royal National Park, Eswatini

With the rhinos at the watering hole in Hlane Royal National Park.

4. Malolotja Nature Reserve

Like Mlawula, this is a government-run park and has a similar outdated and tired feel. But you’re not visiting for the facilities; Malolotja is one of Southern Africa’s best highland reserves. Here it’s as much about the mountain scenery as the wildlife. That said, it’s much easier to spot the wildlife here than at Mlawula, with much less foliage and less skittish animals. You’ll undoubtedly see plenty of blesbok, and most likely zebra and wildebeest too. The best way to explore Malolotja is on one of the many hiking trails that cross the park. If you’ve got the legs for it and a head for heights, then a guided walk down to the ‘potholes’ waterfalls makes for an excellent full-day hike. Otherwise, take in the breathtaking scenery and spot wildlife on one of the shorter hikes around the main camp.

Eswatini landscape

Mountain vistas in the highland Malolotja Nature Reserve

5. Mbuluzi Game Reserve

Mbuluzi is a privately owned and operated Eswatini game park is close to Mlawula. Still, it couldn’t be more different with its abundant wildlife and upmarket vibe. Here you can stay in a luxury lodge overlooking the Mlawula River. And watch as kudu and nyala casually wander across the bottom of the lawn. Another park in Eswatini where it’s safe to roam on foot. Mbuluzi has the distinction of being the only one where you can walk freely with giraffes. Gentle, yes. But also definitely giants when confronted by them on foot.

On Safari in Eswatini Mbuluzi Game Reserve walking safari, Eswatini

6. Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary

Mlilwane is a great place to get active while on safari in Eswatini. Take an overnight horse trek and sleep in a cave beneath Execution Rock (criminals used to be pushed off the top). Hire mountain bikes and cycle through herds of wildebeest. Or head out on foot to spot hippos and crocs around the watering hole. If all that activity isn’t your thing, stick to the main rest camp. Here you can spend the night in a traditional beehive hut and put your feet up by the pool. Whatever you choose, you’ll be surrounded by some stunning scenery and plenty of easy-to-spot wildlife.

Safari in Eswatini Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary overnight horse trek

Overnight horse trekking in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, with Execution Rock up ahead.

Safari in Eswatini: Practicalities of Traveling in the Kingdom

Entrance to and accommodation within the game reserves of Eswatini is generally very affordable. Accommodation ranges from the luxurious at Mkhaya and Mbuluzi to the more basic government-run parks of Malolotja and Mlawula, with the costs varying accordingly. Camping is possible at many of the reserves. The Big Game Parks of Hlane and Mlilwane have many overnight options, including a backpackers set within the grounds of Mlilwane, specifically aimed at budget travellers.
Going on safari in Eswatini is easy if you are travelling in your own vehicle, with paved roads extending to the gates of most of them. However, travelling by public transport is also possible, as the entrances to most to Eswatini game parks are on, or close to, main thoroughfares. Kombis (minibuses) and less frequent public buses cover an extensive network. They are safe and very affordable but take only cash.
We have lots more practical suggestions for travel in Eswatini HERE.

Visited: 2013-2015