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Travel Obscure

Spot sea turtles at Ouvéa’s Trou aux Tortues, New Caledonia

Beauvoisin is in the north of Ouvéa Island and close to the Trou aux Tortues, a great place for turtle-spotting

Beauvoisin: A tribal homestay on Ouvéa Island

Nestled in the forest at the northern end of Ouvéa Island, Beauvoisin provides homestay-style accommodation in rustic tribal huts. It’s an excellent base for exploring the island and gaining an insight into Kanak tribal culture, as Chris Shorrock explains.

Where is Beauvoisin?

Beauvoisin sits just off a side road, surrounded by tropical forest and palm trees, in the settlement of Gossanah. Gossanah is located in the north of Ouvéa Island, one of New Caledonia’s Loyalty Islands. These islands still cling tightly to their local Kanak culture, and Gossanah is known for its history of pro-independence sentiment. The village features heavily in Rebellion, a 2012 film on the subject.
Rico walking along a beach on southern end of Ouvea near Mouli

Fayaoué Beach stretches the length of Ouvéa and is the longest beach in New Caledonia

How to get to Beauvoisin

International flights to New Caledonia all arrive at La Tontouta International Airport. However, it’s a further 46 kilometres by road to the centre of Nouméa, New Caledonia’s capital city, where the domestic airport is located.
Flying into Ouvea Island

Ouvéa Island stretching ahead on our approach to the island

There are a few different travel options between La Tontouta and Nouméa Magenta Domestic Airport, where flights to Ouvéa depart. The flight to Ouvéa takes approximately 40 minutes.
It’s best to arrange a car hire before your arrival on Ouvéa as there is no public transport on the island. We used Fatou Location and booked the rental in advance via email. They were somewhat inconspicuous outside the airport, so be prepared to ask around on arrival to find your rental.
Beauvoisin is roughly a 40-minute drive from Ouvéa’s airport.

Beauvoisin is a rustic tribal homestay

The owner of Beauvoisin, Marc Wetewea, has two traditional Kanak thatch huts in tropical gardens adjacent to his family home. The largest hut is split into two separate accommodations, and we paid 16,695 Pacific Francs for three nights in one of these.
The tribal huts are sparsely furnished with a bed, table and chair. The windows are made of wooden shutters (no glass). The homestay is comfortable enough, although a few drips did make their way through the thatch when it rained heavily. Camping is also available, and the shared bathrooms have showers, flushing toilets and sinks.
Beauvoisin Ouvea Island Hut

Accommodation at Beauvoisin is in traditional tribal huts

Breakfast is included, and other meals are also available for a fee. All are served on the covered verandah overlooking the gardens. Breakfast includes fruit, a fresh baguette, jam, butter, coffee and juice.
Beauvoisin Ouvea Island Breakfast and Dinner Area

Meals at Beauvoisin are served on the garden verandah

Learn about Ouvéa’s rich tribal Kanak culture

Although Marc didn’t speak much English (and our French is almost non-existent), we enjoyed muddling through conversions with him, learning about his Gossanah tribe and the island’s languages. Ouvéa has two distinct languages; Iaaï, spoken chiefly by Protestants, and Faga-Uvea, spoken predominantly by the Catholics of the island. On such a small island, the language can change from one village to the next.

What to do at Beauvoisin

Marc can help arrange activities, including boat trips on the UNESCO-listed lagoon and island tours. The walking tour to Ouéva’s shark nursery leaves from nearby St. Josephs, and the pristine sands of Plage de Tiberia are only a short drive away (equally great for snorkelling and sunbathing).
Ouvea Island Shark Nursery

Marc, the owner of Beauvoisin, arranged for us to join a tour to a nearby shark nursery

Ouvea Island Beach

Plage de Tiberia is a short drive from Beauvoisin

Further afield, there’s the brilliant white sand and turquoise waters of Fayaoue Beach. Pont de Mouli is an excellent spot for turtle and shark spotting in the far south. And halfway down the island, unassuming Snack O’Kafika serves mouthwatering seafood overlooking the lagoon.
Sat at Snack O’Kafika on Ovuea Island

Snack O’Kafika is a convenient meal stop on the road south from Beauvoisin

Beauvoisin is a rustic homestay with a friendly host

This isn’t a luxury destination; the huts can only be described as basic tribal accommodation. But the welcome is warm, and the setting is sublime. On an island with limited options, Marc makes a stay at Ouvéa’s Beauvoisin a treat.