Pilgrims gather for the Festival of Maryam Zion in Axum, North-West Ethiopia
North-West Ethiopia’s Top 5 Sights
Ethiopia is vast, so most visitors must choose one area to explore. With oodles of history, stunning natural landscapes, rare endemic wildlife and vibrant festivals, the North-West regions of Amhara and Tigray are the perfect introduction to Ethiopia.
Here, Chris Shorrock gives his version of North-West Ethiopia’s top 5 sights.
1. The Rock-Hewn Churches of Tigray
Combining history, hiking and pure adrenaline, exploring the rock-hewn churches of Tigray is not for the faint of heart. Carved from the rock atop lofty peaks and sheer cliff faces, the rock-hewn churches of Tigray are anything but easy to get to. But that’s half the fun of it.
Some of the churches are a short walk from the road. But to reach others, you’ll need to scale steep rock walls or haul yourself up ancient-looking leather ropes. It’s worth it; the frescoed dome-roofed churches are cut from the living rock, and the centuries-old candlelit interiors will transport you back in time.
The views from the doorways across the arid northern plains and rocky peaks are pretty impressive, too.
The rock-hewn churches of Tigray are one of North-West Ethiopia's top sights
2. The Simien Mountains
North-west Ethiopia’s premiere hiking destination, the Simien Mountains, comprise wide wildlife-filled plateaus edged by plunging escarpments and separated by steep valleys. They’re best appreciated on a multi-day trek, which could include Ethiopia’s highest peak, Ras Dashen, at 4,550 metres high.
The trails often skirt the edges of the escarpment, with awe-inspiring views of the plains and villages below. And if you love wildlife, you’re never far from the herbivorous and endemic Gelada baboons, cropping the mountain-top grass and frolicking on the cliffs.
The views from Ethiopia's Simien Mountains are spectacular at sunset
3. The Festivals
Pilgrims gather yearly in the Tigrayan town of Axum for the Festival of Maryam Zion. Celebrated on the 30th of November, the festivities centre around the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, reportedly home to the Ark of the Covenant.
Pilgrims camp out around the church, chanting, praying and dancing. Gold-bedecked priests, shaded by elaborate tasselled parasols, mingle with crowds of white-blanket-shrouded pilgrims, hawkers and camels. Crowds number in their thousands, and while the proceedings may be hard to fathom, the feeling of intense spirituality emanating from the participants is unmistakable.
The town of Axum is well worth visiting outside festival season, too, to see its ancient stone stelae. Intricately carved from single pieces of rock soon after the birth of Christ, these giant stelae reach up to 24 metres high and are conveniently located close to the church.
Thousands of pilgrims gather in Axum at the end of November to celebrate the Festival of Maryam Zion, one of North-West Ethiopia's top sights
4. The Wildlife
This isn’t your classic African safari destination. And, while Ethiopia can’t compete with the likes of Kenya or Tanzania for the ‘Big 5’ experience, it does have a host of unique animals found nowhere else.
The Simien Mountains, in North-West Ethiopia, are one of the best places to see this unique wildlife, including Africa’s most endangered carnivore, the Ethiopian wolf. The endemic Gelada baboons are widespread here, too, and trekking along the high plateaus of the Simien Mountains surrounded by these fluffy-haired primates is a quintessential Ethiopian experience.
If you’re lucky, you may also spot the endangered Walia ibex clinging to an impossibly steep cliff face high above.
North-West Ethiopia is home to wildlife found nowhere else, including the Gelada baboon
4. Lalibela
Probably Ethiopia’s best-known sight, the town of Lalibela in Amhara State is home to a cluster of mediaeval rock-hewn churches. Carved out of the solid bedrock, visitors can stand on the precipice and look down on the monumental churches from above, with intricately carved windows and ancient wooden doors.
Explore labyrinthine tunnels and passages to navigate between churches, all a stone’s throw from each other, passing robed priests and chanting pilgrims en route. Cross the threshold into dimly lit interiors to marvel at the cavernous interiors with their lavish paintings and incense-scented rooms. It’s like stepping back in time.
The mediaeval churches of Lalibela are hand carved from the solid bedrock
Practicalities of visiting north-west Ethiopia’s top 5 sights
Independent travel in Ethiopia can be challenging and frustrating, and hiring a guide can insulate you from a lot of hassle. Ambelu Kebede helped organise some of my travels while in the country and is a fantastic English-speaking guide.
Safety in north-west Ethiopia is not what it was when I visited in 2015; these sights might have to go on your bucket list until the security situation settles down. However, many other sights are safe to visit in Ethiopia, and Ambelu at Ethio Gateway Tours has plenty of itinerary ideas.
Visited: November 2015