Dinghies depart East Cape's jetty, or nearby beach, for the outer islands daily
How to Take a Dinghy from East Cape
Here, Rico Pena explains how to take a dinghy from East Cape to either Fergusson or Normanby Island.
East Cape, aptly named, is a small village at the easternmost tip of mainland Papua New Guinea (PNG). This isolated part of PNG is a great launching point to access both Fergusson and Normanby Islands. There’s not much there; a small market, open-air church, dilapidated primary school, the jetty, and a basic guesthouse (the pastor’s wife has the key – called Woman’s Guesthouse).
Chris, with our dinghy skipper, Tomtom Rasta and his friend, in East Cape
How Public Dinghies Work at East Cape
Public Dinghies arrive in East Cape from the various outer islands in the morning. There’s no set timetable with each dinghy collecting villagers from around the islands before heading across to East Cape.
Tip: Bring your own life jacket; it’s unlikely there will be any onboard.
After dropping off the passengers in East Cape, the dinghies and skippers wait in East Cape as their passengers head into Alotau by Public Motor Vehicle (PMV). This takes most of the day as the passengers shop before returning in the afternoon. At various times in the afternoon, roughly from 2 pm to 6 pm, PMVs will roll back into East Cape, and the Dinghies will start to depart.
How to Take a Public Dinghy from East Cape?
There are no booking systems or timetables for dinghies at East Cape. Instead, passengers often know the dinghy owners and call them to arrange pick-up. As such, it’s best to arrange a dinghy through the owner of the guesthouse where you’ll be staying on the islands, if possible. For example, Wayaki at Sibonai Guesthouse organised our spot on a public dinghy from East Cape.
Public Motor Vehicles (PMVs) travel the route between East Cape and Alotau
Tip: Piracy is a concern in this area. Make sure the dinghy is at least 40 horsepower; it makes it easier to outrun any potential trouble.
The Pastor's wife has the key for the Women's Guesthouse, and we spent a lot of time outside the Pastor's house while we waited for dinghies in East Cape
Can you Take a Private Dinghy from East Cape?
You can organise private dinghies, and often skippers will try to sell the private ride to you without asking. This is easier and prevents a long wait for a public dinghy from East Cape, but it’s vastly more expensive.
If you are heading to either Fergusson or Normanby Island, you will likely travel via East Cape. Heading out to the outer islands on public transport is a unique experience and a great way to immerse yourself in the local culture.
Tip: Be patient and prepared. East Cape is a slow-paced coastal town on ‘Island Time.’ Our wait time varied from six to 29 hours.
East Cape Accommodation: Women's Guesthouse
If you’re stuck in East Cape overnight waiting for a dinghy, as we were, East Cape Women’s Guesthouse is the best option. It’s the definition of basic, with mattresses on the floor in rooms with no doors. Locals usually stay in the nearby ‘transit house’, so you’ll likely have this all to yourself anyway.
The Women's Guesthouse in East Cape is the best place to stay if you're waiting over night
East Cape Women's Guesthouse has basic rooms, with no doors and mattresses on the floor
Facilities are minimal, a water tank out back (make sure you get the tap unlocked) and a loo over the ocean a five-minute walk away (get the key for this from the pastor’s wife). There are no cooking facilities, so if you want a hot meal, it’s best to arrange this earlier in the day with the pastor’s wife; she’s also the one to speak to organise your stay.
Ask anyone in East Cape, and they will point you to the pastor’s house; it’s just across from the jetty, and the Women’s guesthouse is next door.
Visited: January 2023